Our team attended the menswear trade shows in Paris for the Spring Summer 2018 season, this included Tranoi Men’s and MAN. Alongside the well established designers we discovered many new exciting emerging brands and collaborative projects.
Tranoi Mens was held over two venues, Carreau du Temple and Palais de la Bourse. At Carreau du Temple alongside the designer stands, there was also an exhibition space which showed the graduates work from Esmod France and IFA Paris, two of the most prestigious fashion academies in France.
Image: Esmod Graduate Collections
Alongside the graduate exhibition space there was also exhibit by Novembre magazine, a biannual and online magazine that focuses on contemporary fashion, art and innovation. This space provided visitors with an opportunity to delve into the pages of Novembre and be surrounded by the high-fashion editorials that the magazine is known so well for.
Image: Novembre Magazine
At Palais de la Bourse the intrigued continued with an installation by Milosh Luczynski, a Paris based video artist, who created an immersive installation that surrounded the walls and ceilings of Palais de la Bourse. His work explores the boundaries of perception, with the installation pieces formulating an augmented environment.
Image: Installation by Milosh Luczynski
MAN was held at Pavillon Vendôme and their newest venue Hôtel d’Évreux. The stunning 18th century settings of this hotel provided the perfect backdrop for all the latest menswear collections for SS18.
Image: Hôtel d’Évreux
There was a real sense of community and consideration within this seasons shows, with companies ensuring their products were sustainable, considered and that their products gave something back. Two key brands that stood out in regards to their values and positive contributions were DafDae and Cmmnty, read below to learn more about these design brands and how they are changing the way in which the industry works.
DAFDAE is a brand new menswear brand which creates bespoke designs that are handcrafted in London and are all created from up-cycled garments. Their aim is to redefine what is considered as modern luxury menswear and create one off pieces that are in effect works of art in their own right. The brand is a creative collaboration between Joey Essex, Nathalie Ballout and Jake Taylor. Combining their different backgrounds they come together to formulate this slow fashion brand that has sustainability at the heart of it. By up-cycling the brand is taking unwanted products and recreating them into environmentally conscious one-off unique pieces.
CMMNTY is a new brand which is based around the principle of collaboration, creating clothes that are not just ethical but they also give back, donating 5% of all profits to Emmaus which is a charity for the homeless. The distinctive design factor of CMMNTY is that each month the brand collaborates with a different artist, creating a physical art gallery as the wearer can purchase these limited edition collaborative pieces. The brands aesthetic has strong streetwear narrative, with the limited edition t-shirts as the prime product and the inclusion of accessories within each collaborative project. With all these collaborative partners the brand forms as an overall community that shares the same creative passion and the principles to give back into the wider community, helping others less fortunate.
Emerging at the Trade Shows
Key emerging trends for the menswear SS18 season included the new camo, a contemporary update on the traditional, featuring soft wash appearances in contrast to harsher colour block variants with brands such as Make What You Will, Hope and Atelier de l’Armée displaying this.
Images from left to right: Make What You Will, Hope, Atelier de l’Armée
A key colour that ran through many of the collections we saw was orange, whether that is an accent or all-over colour. This vibrant and summer-ready shade was apparent throughout and it validates our Spring/Summer 18 Mens Colour Forecast. Brands such as Make What You Will, Frei Clothing and ATF all featuring this sharp and seasonal colour.
Image from left to right: Make What You Will, Frei Clothing, ATF
We also spotted a strong retro sports influence within the collections. Old school sporting slogans and bright sports inspired shades worked alongside stripe leg detailing and an overall retro aesthetic. Belgian Company, Lat and Nonagon previewed this overriding theme within their SS18 offerings.
Images from left to right: Belgian Company, Lat, Nonagon