Lineapelle, Europe’s leading leather fair once again played host to an international contingent of tanneries and manufacturers, showcasing the latest innovations and directional trend-led fabrications.
The spring/summer 2018 edition put a contemporary twist on traditional pastel tones and floaty fabrications. Unexpected colour combinations and a wealth of new compositions referenced the spheres of both man-made tech and the natural world to refresh seasonal classics. Among the lightweight pales and pastels, darker hues and heavier weights were also in evidence, illustrating the growing trend toward offering more season-less and gender-less product.
Incorporating technical fabric components sees the leather industry tapping into the hybrid trend.
Left to right: Conceria di Urgnano, Martucci, Sirte Conceria all Spring Summer 2018
Glove-weight skins backed with technical synthetics, mesh or foam completely altered both the feel and function of the leather and many tanneries adopted this as a way of introducing a performance element into an otherwise traditional industry. Of particular interest was the inclusion of sandwiched aluminium layers and wire-threaded intrecciatos, creating lightweight leather composites with added strength, malleability and memory.
Matte surfaces are key for 2018. Chalky, dusty finishes and smooth or corrected grains in single colour-ways give skins a premium looking solidity and density. Though shine and metallics were still present, their overall effect was much more muted, taking inspiration from nature rather than high-tech futurism.
Left to right: Ecopell, Abip, Tuscania all Spring Summer 2018
Following the fashion industry’s move into more transseasonal territory, tanneries reflected this in their offerings with heavier weight suedes and thick spongy leathers that provide a contrast to the season’s super lightweight paper qualities. More substantial handles enhance the drapey pooling qualities of suede while napped and brushed surfaces soften the overall look.
We also saw a return to oily-feel handles and waxed surfaces. These finishes still retain the season’s over-arching mattified look but bring a new dimension in terms of touch and feel giving a nod to the industry’s industrial origins and proving especially good for footwear.
Left to right: Caravaggio, Sciarada, Gruppo all Spring Summer 2018
A new innovation being trialled by a several tanneries are glow-in-the-dark treatments and fluorescing effects. Neon suedes emanate a club-land glow under UV lighting while leathers overprinted with luminous coatings have great potential particularly for kidswear applications.
Left to right: Ge Fin, Sciarada both Spring Summer 2018
About The Show
Lineapelle returns to Milan in October. Based at the Expo Centre in Rho Fiera, the show will once again feature leathers and materials from global tanneries and manufacturers as well as comprehensive coverage of components and trims for the accessories, apparel and home markets.