Demna Gvasalia has been making waves in the fashion industry over the last couple of years, in particularly during the fall of 2016, when it was announced he would be taking over as artistic director of Balenciaga.
The Vetements Head Designer, and spokesman, Demna is known for looking to the street for inspiration, breathing fresh life into the Parisian fashion scene. He is moving away from the older, more conservative houses and breaking conventions. Known for collaborations, items such as the Vetements DHL t-shirt sold out almost instantly at retailers such as Dover Street Market even though DSM were selling it for £185.
“My work is always about reality – It’s just honest. That is what’s happening around us.” Demna Gvasalia
Balenciaga head designer Gvasalia is the master of pop culture and incorporates as much as he can into his designs, as was seen in his Spring 2017 Vetements collection where Vetements collaborated with 54 different brands including Levi’s, Hanes, Champion, Carhartt, and CDG Shirt.
In his Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection for Balenciaga, which showed in Paris on Wednesday, he included a strong graphic language throughout, recognisable to anyone who followed the 2016 US election.
IN MEMORY OF THE BERNIE SANDERS CAMPAIGN
At a time when American politics is at the forefront of everyone’s minds, Demna Gvasalia recreates the Balenciaga logo, in red, white and blue, mimicking Bernie Sanders historic campaign. The reinvented logo appears on many products throughout the collection such as, padded scarves, embroidered hoodies, outerwear and accessories.
TAILORING VS SPORTSWEAR
Traditionally, tailoring is at the heart of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s heritage. Gvasalia wanted to keep this tradition and continue with boxy dominance that was evident in the Balenciaga Spring collection. The Fall 2017 show started with a series of formal ankle-length overcoats, which had strong sloping shoulders and were slightly curved in at the waist. The products are roomy, bringing a more comfortable aesthetic to the formalwear. Footwear came in the form of chunky soled sneakers, combat-style and rain boots. Half way through, Demma Gvasalia transitioned the show into sportswear with full-length padded coats, cleverly bringing a youthful modernism to the overall collection.
Recognising that Balenciaga is worn by a broad demographic, Demna presented the looks on a range of models from different age brackets. This styling allowed for a much more physically diverse collection, celebrating age diversity whilst bringing a newfound attitude.