The 2016 edition of Goldsmiths’ Fair combines the contemporary with the iconic as works by a host of exciting new designers sits alongside a display of pieces by one of the industry’s pioneers. The renowned designer/maker Barbara Cartlidge is celebrated with a dramatic showcase of the giant gems and modernist forms that epitomise her work. In the contemporary arena, Erin O’Connor is this year’s guest curator. ‘Erin O’Connor Selects’ features 22 statement pieces personally chosen by the international model from among the exhibitors.
Perhaps inspired by Cartlidge’s work, big, bold proportions are much in evidence. Giant faceted cabochons of Morganite and Sunstone at David Fowkes adorn sinuous articulated neckpieces, rings and cufflinks. Smooth polished stones at Maria Frantzi are accented with delicate metalwork detailing.
Constructivist forms take a softer approach with mixed material compositions and colour washes. Spray painted finishes give Ruth Laird’s industrial forms a softly weathered feel while Stacey Bentley’s coloured gloss and matte oxidised finishes contrast with angular polished silver shapes.
Unexpected textural elements and mixed materials add a new dimension to jewellery. Mara Irsara’s segmented and sliced circles are inset with inky black or vibrantly coloured flocking while Karolina Baines layers oxidised metal and enamel geos with contrasting coloured threads.